Frequently Asked Questions

1. What’s the difference between a hot tub and a spa?
2. Should I install my hot tub indoors or outdoors?
3. Do I need to connect plumbing to my spa?
4. What kind of base should the hot tub be on?
5. Are rodents and other pests a consideration as to location of the spa?
6. What’s the best horsepower (pumps) for a spa?
7. How many jets should I look for in a spa?
8. What’s the best way to insulate a spa? I’ve heard all sorts of different ideas on this, and since I’m putting the spa outdoors I want the best energy efficiency possible.
9. I’ve been told the hot tub will only cost $ 10.00 to $30.00 per month to operate. Is that true?
10. Do I need to perform routine maintenance on the spa?
11. How do I find the most suitable model for my needs?
12. Should I have a lounge/recliner or all seating?
13. How important is the warranty on the spa?
14. Should I get a “maintenance free” exterior on the spa or wood?
15. How hard is it to maintain the water in a hot tub?

1. What’s the difference between a hot tub and a spa?
   The original term “hot tub” referred to a wooden type redwood tub. “Spa” came along when the synthetics came out, like acrylic. They’re essentially interchangeable terms today. (top)
   
   
2. Should I install my hot tub indoors or outdoors?
   Our spas are built to withstand the harsh New England winters, but could still be installed indoors, of course. Considerations include humidity control, installation, etc. Ambience of the spa experience is another consideration, such as being able to stargaze from the spa. Approximately 80% of the spa s we deliver go outdoors. And, with the Forever Floor our spas can go right on the level ground, no base preparation required. Don’t forget we offer free site evaluation to help you choose the site most suitable for you. (top)
   
   
3. Do I need to connect plumbing to my spa?
   Our spas are completely self-contained and require no additional plumbing. (top)
   
   
4. What kind of base should the hot tub be on?
   Most spas don’t utilize a fiberglass base, and may have no base at all! (just a foam and wood combination.) These types definitely need a firm (concrete or block) base. Our spas, if equipped with the Forever Floor, can be installed directly on the level ground. (top)
   
   
5. Are rodents and other pests a consideration as to location of the spa?
   Absolutely! Mice, chipmunks, snakes and bees will do their best to “move in”, and can do significant damage that would not be covered by most warranties. They are especially attracted to a foam-filled spa, which offers a nice medium for them to tunnel and build nests in. Typically in the fall, mice and other rodents will look for a warm place to move to. If the spa is not completely sealed, they will be moving in! They are also a nuisance and a possible hazard. We’ve seen this situation over and over. Find out if it is guaranteed that these pests can’t enter the spa base or the cabinet, and if they do, if the damages are part of the warranty. (top)
   
   
6. What’s the best horsepower (pumps) for a spa?
   Today’s pumps are “uprated”. That means that the most that pump will ever put out (such as at startup) is given as the horsepower. A more accurate indication is that of “flow rate”, which will give you an exact determination of how much water the pump is moving. Also, look at the jets – is the spa filled mostly with “needle” jets that have a very small nozzle? That would indicate the pump could not adequately “handle” what true therapy jets would require. (top)
   
   
7. How many jets should I look for in a spa?
   The number of jets will to some degree give you an idea as to the spas therapy. Some things to keep in mind: Does the manufacturer or retailer count every “nozzle” a jet? Some jets have 10 nozzles or more, and this should be counted as one jet, not ten. Also, are the jets “needle” jets? (A small nozzled jet that gives a sort of “pinprick” massage) Or, are they true therapeutic jets? (large nozzle) It’s easy to put a hundred needle jets in a spa, but it isn’t as therapeutic as forty rotating large nozzle jets powered by high flow pumps! (top)
   
   
8. What’s the best way to insulate a spa? I’ve heard all sorts of different ideas on this, and since I’m putting the spa outdoors I want the best energy efficiency possible.
   Ask yourself this question – How are homes in the Northeast insulated?
   The answer is that the majority of the insulation is in the attic, right? That’s because, as we all know, heat rises. Another question – where are your furnace and water heater located? The answer is they are located in the basement, and the ambient heat they produce is contained within the house. Quite a few spas are manufactured that require the use of sprayed foam to support the shell. Without the foam, the shell would crack under the tremendous weight of the water. These are not self-supporting shells. This foam is under the shell, and around the sides of the shell. (Like putting the majority of the insulation under your basement floor) But, as we know, heat rises. Plus all of the plumbing is now covered with foam, making service extremely difficult. (Would you buy a car that had its hood welded shut?) Also in this situation the pumps and equipment are in a separate “equipment bay”, and the heat from these is actually wasted by design- escaping through various louvers etc. (Like putting your furnace and water heater outside your home) The best way is to start with a self-supporting shell - more costly, but much more efficient because all of the equipment ambient heat is transferred through the shell into the water, all of the plumbing is accessible, and the perimeter insulation is designed like your home. (top)
   
   
9. I’ve been told the hot tub will only cost $ 10.00 to $30.00 per month to operate. Is that true?
   Oftentimes, averages are used by salespeople. Even if you could get a guarantee about what your spa could cost, there would be so many conditions to the guarantee as to make it almost useless. There are lots of variables. How often it’s used, by how many people, at what temperature, where it’s located, how much wind, etc., all these variables affect how much the spa will cost to run. See #8 above, and you can see what makes sense, and what doesn’t. (top)
   
   
10. Do I need to perform routine maintenance on the spa?
    Generally speaking, no. The spa is not like a furnace that requires seasonal maintenance. However, a “foam-filled” spa would necessitate an inspection 6-7 times per year to change rodent poison, (as per exterminators’ recommendations) spray bee’s nests etc. Also, some ozone systems require a bulb change (UV Ozone) or a “chip” change (CD Ozone) about every two years. It’s a good idea to visually inspect any spas’ plumbing (if it can be viewed, non-spray-foamed) and equipment at least once a year, to check for pump or plumbing leaks at unions, etc. Detected early, this would possibly prevent further damage. (top)
    
    
11. How do I find the most suitable model for my needs?
    How many people will be using the spa maximum? When evaluating size, it’s a good idea to decrease the manufacturer’s “people count” by one, since that number is the maximum, and is not necessarily as comfortable filled all the way. What size are most of the people using the spa? A varying seat height pattern in a spa makes more sense if there are different size people, or if children will be using the spa. Are you purchasing a spa mostly for therapy? Or entertainment? Or family togetherness? Look for reasons why this particular model fits those needs, or would maybe fit all those needs. Should I “wet-test” a spa? Not a bad idea, but at least “dry-test” a spa. Looking for comfortability when empty will give you a good idea of how the spa fits you, and how appropriate it is for you when full. Look for extra comfortable “touches” in the spa, like armrests (a more expensive shell, but worth it) and “no-float” lounges. Should I get that TV, or stereo? Well, depends on the warranty. Of course, water and electronics is not a good match. Moisture shortens the life of any of these, unless you can pick a model that has the speakers, etc. behind the shell. Avoid “pop-up” speakers, and televisions. (top)
    
    
12. Should I have a lounge/recliner or all seating?
    This is mostly personal preference, but keep in mind there is no more therapy in a lounge than in a seat, as a matter of fact there could be fewer jets in the lounge. Because you are buoyant, a lounge is really no more comfortable than a seat and depending on the spa may actually be less comfortable. Floating in a lounge can be more work than fun. Check to see if it’s long enough for the tallest person using the spa, and see if it has a “no-float” design. On the other hand, it’s a nice option to have for the spa users who like them. (top)
    
    
13. How important is the warranty on the spa?
    Extremely. If the manufacturer doesn’t have the confidence in their product to warranty it for a long time that should speak volumes to the spa shopper. Stay away from “prorated” warranties, where the warranty increases in percentage of costs back to you as time goes on. For example, you may see a “Lifetime” warranty on a shell. However, after the second year, if you experienced a crack in the shell, you may have to pay for 50 % of the spa again to get it replaced! Also, look for hidden details, such as, are the jets covered (the actual inserts in the spa, not just leaks at the jets) for the same amount of time as the pump (s)? They may only be covered upon delivery or for two years, and are quite expensive to replace. Also, who performs the warranty in-home service? Are they too busy to attend to a spa customer? Is their main business hot tubs? Or are they offering several different product lines that may “water down” their customer service? The most important thing with a warranty: Read it. Ask for a copy of the warranty and read for yourself what is covered, and what isn’t. (top)
    
    
14. Should I get a “maintenance free” exterior on the spa or wood?
    It depends on the quality of the wood. “Maintenance-free” is not as “free” as once was thought. For one thing, it breaks. When it breaks, it’s expensive to replace, and is not usually covered by warranty. It is not repairable if cracked or broken. It fades in UV rays. Lately, it has been found that some of the supposedly “maintenance-free” decking in the construction field actually needs to be sealed with water repellant, just like wood. A cheap wood cabinet is not acceptable, however. Look for solid wood construction, not veneer. Ask them to take off a cabinet door and look for yourself. What’s on the inside? Is it quality or is it made to look good only when new? Wood offers some advantages, and is not as labor intensive to keep up (if it’s a quality product) as say, a deck, that is being continuously walked on. (top)
    
    
15. How hard is it to maintain the water in a hot tub?
    That depends on the hot tub. Look for a quality water treatment system on the hot tub. Ozone is a common oxidizer used to automatically sanitize the water. Look for “CD” ozone versus “UV” ozone. A CD ozonator is more effective and longer lasting. How is it delivered? Does it have a mixing chamber to interact and be mixed with the water, thereby making it more effective? Or does it have a simple “Venturi” as a delivery system that doesn’t work as effectively? A marketing ploy today is to advertise the ozonator with the hot tub, but make it as cheap as possible. What kind of filter does it have? A Cartridge filter is the most common, (needs to be cleaned frequently and doesn’t filter fine particulates) but there are quality filter systems that filter much finer, and are disposable. These types also eliminate the need for some of the chemicals you would ordinarily use. (top)

Coyote Spas